So, a few weeks ago I made a fantastic purchase - the legendary Polivoks analog synthesizer. The one I got was in a very sorry state, but if it hadn't been I couldn't have afforded it. I bought it from a guy in Belarus via Ebay. It had been modified (badly) by a previous owner and he hadn't managed to get it back into working order. It's keyboard had been hacked off and MIDI added, but it wasn't functioning correctly - the pitch was tracking poorly and it wouldn't always respond to a gate signal. The LFO wasn't functioning and the amp envelopes sustain and release had no response.
The MIDI to CV board was a professionally made board, but there was very little information about it on the internet so I had to analyze it myself with my miniature digital scope while sending MIDI to it. The Hz/V tracking needed calibrating, and the tuning of the synth could then be calibrated reasonably well - I get 4 octaves within 3 cents of accuracy. There was a PWM out that responded to velocity which was connected to the VCA daughter board, but it didn't sound very nice. I removed this entirely and replaced the solder bridge that it had been replacing and voila - sustain and release functioning again. Although this synth should be switchable to duophonic - being able to play 2 notes at a time by assigning one note to each oscillator, this would only be possible with a duophonic keyboard or a 2 channel MIDI to CV converter. This is not a big deal for me, I probably wouldn't have used it anyway.
The gate signal issue was resolved by adding a diode as seen in the gate/CV mods already published at technopop. The LFO issue was resolved by cleaning the contacts on the LFO daughter board. Despite some unfavorable comments elsewhere I was surprised to find the construction of this synth is actually very well done. I don't understand Russian Cyrillic but I found it very easy to read the schematics. The controls are mounted on two main boards screwed to the case, with a number of daughter boards mounted at right angles to the main boards, all held in with a large brass strip and a number of screws. Each daughter board is dedicated to a single function - 1 for each oscillator, one for VCF etc. This made troubleshooting much easier.
The rest of the restoration was pretty standard stuff - clear up all the dust, clean some contacts, Tighten up some screws and replace some really dirty pots with modern equivalents. To fix the loose knobs I took a modern rubberized knob and peeled off the rubber, trimmed the plastic insert down and not glued them in place of the original plastic insert. I have 4 knobs missing and it will be impossible to find exact replacements, I will have to do some browsing to find some vintage looking modern alternatives. The power button cap is missing, I will probably replace the whole switch with a high quality rocker switch at some point.
And so having made the Polivoks fully functional again, I set to work looking for a few mods. This synth features analog FM - you can modulate oscillator 1 with oscillator 2. But the modulation doesn't go deep enough. This was easily rectified by replacing a resistor (R64) with a short piece of wire. With the knob turned fully counter clockwise, it sounds like an unmodified Polivoks. At about 12 o clock it sounds like an unmodified Polivoks would fully clockwise. And fully clockwise the FM sounds comparable to analog FM on my Eurorack modular VCOs.
The other mod was to extend the LFO rate. This was also a pretty simple mod, simply replacing the original rate knob (R107) with a with a 1MEG pot. With the knob fully clockwise the rate is the same as an unmodified Polivoks, with the knob fully counter clockwise the rate goes to about 0.5Hz.
I also replaced the main out, headphone out and expression pedal in jacks round the back - they originally used DIN jacks. 1/4 inch jacks can fit in the same holes with no case modifications. The expression pedal input controls filter cutoff frequency. with a 1/4 to 1/8 inch cable I can now modify the cutoff with my modular. I have tested it with both unipolar and bipolar signals and it functions well. The operating supply of the Polivoks is -+12.5V, so it is going to be safe with interfacing directly with most Euro racks as they are usually on -+12V, but be careful with a -+15V synth - module outputs shouldn't go rail to rail, but if they do they could damage the Polivoks.
In the future I will probably add pitch and gate CV inputs for interfacing with the modular, replace the plastic end panels with some polished wood end panels and replace the bottom plate with wood also - the leatherette bound metal case currently has a split right through it from when the keyboard was removed. I also might replace the figure of 8 power supply jack with a 3 pin IEC/kettle lead, hooking up the ground supply to the body and the transformer to try and lower the noise floor - something I have already done, along with other mods to some soviet drum machines. Details of these mods to follow in a later post.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL. AS WITH ALL MY MODS I ACCEPT NO PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGE TO YOURSELF OR YOUR GEAR. ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS, IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING DON'T ATTEMPT ANY OF MY MODS
Nice!! I need to change some of the Pots on mine. Which modern pots did you use as replacements?
ReplyDeletestandard generic 16mm pots that you can buy from anywhere, with a larger washer to mount to the pcb better. I needed to use short jumpers between the pcb and pot lugs, but some of my other pots were already like this - doubt they were originally like that though. A small blob of hot glue to help hold it in place too, but enough so it could be easily removed with a craft knife if needed in the future
ReplyDeleteCool! I also want to change the jacks to 1/4". Where do those new connections go?
ReplyDeleteI'm afraid I didn't write that one down, so I am doing this from memory. for the main out, if you look at the schematic page above you can follow a trace from the middle pin of the main volume pot at the bottom left of the board, round the edge of the board until it gets to r110 and r111 at the top right. The main out is taken from point 7 to the left of r110. this goes to the tip on your 1/4 jack. ground is taken from point 4 to the right of r111, to the sleeve of your 1/4 jack. you can remove any other wires that used to go this jack (after checking youve definitely done it right!). Hopefully you have a multimeter with "continuity test"and you can discover which wire is which by measuring, not by eye.
ReplyDeleteI cant help you with direct instructions for the other jacks I'm afraid. But I offer a few tips.
My headphones are all stereo, so needed a stereo jack so I would hear the synth in both ears. sleeve is ground as always, and i connected ring and tip signals together (so I get sound in both ears, although this is still a mono signal).
filter cv can be controlled with a pedal. I dont have a pedal and wouldnt use it anyway. the pedal is basically just a pot being used as a voltage divider - positive at one side, ground at the other and the cv comes back from the middle pin. If you want to control it with an external cv, you need the ground and cv signal but not the positive signal. ground to sleeve, cv to tip.
Thank You!!! That was a Big help. Do you know of any MIDI retrofits for sale that will work with the Polivoks?
ReplyDeleteyou need to do two things here. You need to convert the polivoks to the volts per octave standard. see http://www.technopop.info/polyvox/index.htm. Very low parts cost for this bit. You wont be able to use "duo-phonic" mode with this mod. It sends the same cv to both osciallators (ie osc 1 gets external cv+master tune, osc 2 gets external cv+master tune+osc2 detune).
ReplyDeleteyou then need a midi to cv converter that also works in the volts per octave standard. this is the most common standard anyway (its mostly japanese companies that use the other most common standard hertz per volt). I build my own using arduino and DAC ICs. The cheapest but high quality commercial product I know of is the midimplant - 45 euro. 2 channel, so you could use channel 2 to control the filter cv via a midi cc number. I've not done this, the only external filter control I use is directly from my modular. But in your position I would replace the pedal cv jack with a switching jack. have the jack normalled to the midimplant channel 2 output, so that when you insert a jack for pedal cv it ignores the channel 2 output and and switches to whatever you have feeding into the jack input. Or do away with the jack altogether and have the filter midi controlled (plus filter env) only. Good luck!
Thank You "Analog Monster". Your instrucions for MIDI conversion are really helpful! I bought my Polivoks (built in 1986) week ago. It was in "AS IS" condition, no power cable, four knobs are missing and lots of dirt on it. I cleaned it carefully, installer IEC (C13) power socket (with Earth connection to synth body), replaced all 5 PIN sockets (in, out, pedal, phones) with 1/4 jack sockets. It all came out nice.
ReplyDeleteIt powers up and seems to work fine but there is one strange fault I can not fix. Maybe You or someone else can help me out. I have problem with Modulator (LFO). LFO does not work like it should, its LED does not blink also. When I power up Polivoks and LFO speed is set to zero, LED is burning, when I turn LFO speed up, LED is going to fade away :( and some seconds later it does not burn even in the zero position any more. LFO speed knob does not affect sound in any way. Modulations in VCO section does change VCO sound something like pitch (turn it up will pitch VCO down a bit). In VCF section modulation doest not do that much, it is almost useless there. In VCA section I found that Modulation pot is a bit bumpy, but not too bad, also it seems not affecting sound.
I checked all the pots from panel with multimeter and specially the LFO speed pot, which seems to be fine. I inspected Modulator block visually and tested all resistors, but did not find any faults in that way. Also I have inspected two main boards same way and found that they are a bit different compared to scrematics I found from internet, but nothing bad for my eye.
Do anyone have any idea, why the LFO does not work like it should? What are criticat components on modulation board, which might be bad? Any ideas are kindly awaited.
There is little demo how the LFO SHOULD work, but mine does not:
http://youtu.be/_szBbup0FhQ
Hi, nice tips in this page!
ReplyDeletePicked up a Polivoks in bad shape, now it rocks again after recapping and other minor fixings.
I've installed jacks for OUT/IN/PHONES, and it's ready to be midified.
Only one issue remains and i'm not getting it.
Everything goes as it should until synth is in "1FON" monophonic mode.
If i switch to "2FON" duophonic mode, second generator's tune drops of 2 semitones and loose the correct scaling. generator 1 works well on both modes.
Any clue?
O.o
Thanks a lot.
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DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteUPDATE:
DeleteThe synth is full recapped now.
I've changed almost all components on voice boards.
- OSC2 is fine.
- OSC1 is out of scaling.
- 2FON still drops OSC 2 tune.
I've tried to swap the sound boards each other (y2 / y3) and the problem is still on OSC1, so i guess the voice cards are OK
So, i focused on board Y1 (keyboard scanner i guess).
I've change here all Opamps, ceramic and polyester condens.
Only one remaining to replace is V6 marked as "3BV2" on component and "Kn3038" on schematics.
Anyone knows if there is an equivalent, or must I order a Russian NOS spare?
I'm getting headache...
Spare found:
ReplyDeleteAccording to cyrillic the code is KP303B, that is equvalent of 2N5556.
Phew...
I found many components for my Polivoks from http://www.evita.lt/en/. Good service.
DeleteFound on the net that 2N5556 should be the equivalent spare part for the KP303B which i suppose is faulty. Well, arrived today, once mounted, i obtaion only a descending tune Sweep each time i press a key, like if ADSR was driving the oscillator's tune. back to the origjnal KP303B, Polivoks back to the same issue as before. anyone knows how are KP303B pin's arranged to be sure? Headache.....
ReplyDeleteMaybe your polivoks is just out of tune? I made this tuning instruction times ago: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2nklcowfhsktl28/Tuning%20of%20the%20POLIVOKS%20synthesizer.pdf?dl=0
DeleteIt is not easy to tune, its very sensitive and you minght start many times from the beginning to get it almost right. I used pitch detection plugin from my DAW for pitch detection.
PS. Do You have schematics?: http://machines.hyperreal.org/manufacturers/Formanta/Polivoks/schematics/
Hi Ott,
Deleteunfortunately it's not only out of tune.
I've used the instructions on ruskeys.net and there' s no chance to tune the "generator 1".
The coarse of both register and fine tune on "generator 1" aren't wide enough, this due to a malfunction somewhere in keyboard tracking section, i guess.
I've tuned "generator 2" this way and it's just perfect.
I've swapped the two generators cards and issue is still on generator 1.
I have original schematics on a russian kind thin paper, the previous owner gave me them.
Thanks for your suggestion, any help is much much much appreciated :)
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DeleteOK, then you must try something else.
DeleteI had problem with those schematics from internet because my main boards (PCB-s) did not match with those. Can You please check if you have different version scematics about main board, I might be interested :) My polivoks woks now but I have little problem with LFO, it gives little constant in-sync clicking noise even if it is not used. Also it was confusing that my main board had many cutted linest on PCB… I experimented to repair them when repaired my polivoks, not sure if I made all correct, thats why Iam interested of correct schematics. Look some cutted lines from this picture I made: https://www.dropbox.com/s/12nrwotj07xfi1h/IMG_0247.jpg?dl=0
Meanwhile, i've found the KP303B datasheet for 2N5556 comparison.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.hobbielektronika.hu/forum/getfile.php?id=86857
I've purchased a MIDI retrofit which requires several traces cutouts, but none near a tuning pot, as your picture shows.
As far as i can tell, yes, my schematics match the cards.
a-w-w-w-w-w-w-w :(
UPDATE: KP303B on keyboard card isn't the one.
ReplyDeleteWaiting for original spares, i've found another KP303B on LFO card, so i've swapped them and issue is still there.
Grrrrrrrrr!!!! @#%&£#$(!!!!!
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ReplyDeleteUPDATE:
ReplyDeleteFound some strange stuff.
Most of the power rails on card's pins give +14V instead of +12.5V and -11V instead of -12.5V.
Someone replaced original 200uF capacitors on Y8 Card with 220uF. Could be this?
More than this, the weirdest thing:
Y6 card doesn't match the schematics as there's a whole part of circuit just missing.
There's no "A2" chip at all as you can see.
Here hi-res pics, missing sections is marked in yellow on schematics:
http://milanelab.altervista.org/POLIVOKS/polivoks_y6_04.jpg
http://milanelab.altervista.org/POLIVOKS/Polivox_y6_03.jpg
http://milanelab.altervista.org/POLIVOKS/Polyvox_y6_02.jpg
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I'm confident anyway:
- i've already drilled holes for Midi retrofit
- Original Mains connector replaced with a standard IEC C13
- Mains heart pin connected to the chassis.
Compare your y6 card with mine. I have photo of my cards, look the card with marker text "X6".
ReplyDeletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/qvwohniklw9lapg/IMG_0260.jpg?dl=0
Oh my gosh, mine lacks one IC.... i was right....
ReplyDeleteMine is marked as 1987.
Could it be a kinda different revision?
:S
As far as i can understant cyrillic characters, seems that this circuit drives controls the four knobs of the mixer section: "Generator1" "Generator2" "Noise" "Input".
DeleteThat knobs work well, so i'll not give too much on this factor, anyway
Mine is from 1983 if I am correct. Yep, your card looks different… Your IC might do the same job as mine two IC's, it might be just integrated into one chip. So do not panic unless you have some real empty holes and missing parts on PCB :)
ReplyDeleteI know, it is big mess… Different revisions and no schematics... I messed weeks and weeks with my polivoks. At the end it was just one blody capacitor.
Maybe it helps if you print all schematics out and try to trace all input and output pins, make measurements with multimeter from powered cards and write all on schematics (be careful). Then take a beer and think.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g2lpd0tafxho8yq/IMG_0310.jpg?dl=0
Check with multimeter that two main boards bridge connections (all pins) are ok.
Check calibration potentiometers, maybe some is dead…
Sometimes it is good idea to replace all capacitors on problematic board.
Check every resistor with multimeter, replace if not accurate.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/veqzkhute8zxckp/IMG_0323.jpg?dl=0
Yep, y6 is mixer.
ReplyDeletey1 is keyboard,
y2 and y3 are generators, your problem might be there...
y4 is filter,
y7 is modulator,
Polivoks architecture:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gkta0bb56lcp5zp/architecture%20of%20Polivox%20synth.jpg?dl=0
Try to swap y2 and y3 and check if problem moves to other oscilaltor :)
DeleteY2 > Y3 swap already done as posted here last March 27th.
DeleteIssue doesn't moves to Generator 2, hence the suggestion that issue could be caused by a wrong keyboard voltages routed to Generator 1 card.
I'm waiting for spare new KP303 from Russian dealer, since each keyoff causes a tune drop on both oscillators, i guess this component is malfunctioning, not sure that's the cause of generator 1 issue.
Here the progress: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7sB1tasAno
Notes drop each keyoff solved.
ReplyDeleteGenerator 1 is still impossible to tune,
I've changed everything on Y1 card with russian NOS spares, i really don't know what to do more than this.
Tried to set trimmers to obtain better tuning but i haven't references to set them for sure.
I'm a step near to give up.
Progress:
ReplyDeleteKeyoff drops solved, keybaord scaling solved by Y1's R30 trimmer replacement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPvAbfQA1ug&feature=youtu.be
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DeleteBad News.
ReplyDeleteI was having fun with Polivoks via MIDI when it stopped playing although midi led was still blinking.
Switched to keyboard tha synth plays but OSC 2 was widely out of tune.
tried to retune it, OSC1 just needed a very fine tuning, but OSC 2 was impossible to tune.
I've swapped the Y2 Y3 cards and problem moved to OSC 1, so, this time the fault is within the card.
Trimmers changed and reset, Nope.
Now i have some spares, but i lack the two main chips of it.
I can't handle cyrillic very well but looks like (A5) KM115V and (A4) KR198H
Do you know if are there some modern equvalents to replace them?
I want to help you , but КР198Н... this is not a complete index. Please give me the full name of the chip.
DeleteMy e-mail- borodat26@gmail.com
My name is Sergey
Hi! I'm having the same problem as Sandro, Osc.1 wont tune up correctly. How did you end up solving this? by changing the trimmers on Y1? cheers!
DeleteSent you a message too Sergey :)
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteDo you know where it be possible to buy the plastic cover of the polivoks front panel? the one marked polivoks?
Thanks
Eric
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ReplyDelete